Gallery Page 4:

Gallery Page 1 (Prior to 1999) or Gallery Page 2 (1999-2003) or Gallery Page 3 (2003) for more samples or Gallery Page 5 (2005) for more samples

On this page are images of the samples woven for the annual sample exchange from 2004. Where known, information about the history of the structure, the weaves and modern weavers are noted. All samples can be found in the Medieval Textiles Sample Notebook in the Complex Weavers' Library. If any are of interest and you are a member of Complex Weavers, do contact the librarian about borrowing the binder.

Samples (c) 2004 by their respective weavers

Samples from December 2004:

Gayle Bingham

Weave: Rosettenkoper

Weaver: Gayle Bingham

Sett: 20 epi/ppi
Yarn: 5/2 cotton
Notes: According to North European Textiles until 1000 AD, (p. 145) by Lise Bender Jorgensen, Rosettenkoper was first discovered by Hans Jurgen Hundt in the Alamannic/Frankish graves of Southern Germany. Jorgensen states that the weave may be extended to all of Northern Europe doe to the large number of this type of weave catalogued in her book. The original was woven with wool yarn. Top view is of the front of the cloth, the botton view is the back.


Gayle Bingham's broken diamond twill
Weave: Balmaclellan Diamond Twill

Weaver: Gayle Bingham

Warp/weft: 5/2 pearle cotton

sett: 20 epi/ppi

Notes: This was woven in Balmaclellan, Dumfriesshire, Scotland in the 1st-2nd century AD., woven in fine wool. This weave was found in the book, (Scotcopy): Early Textiles Found in Scotland by Audrey S. Henshell, M.A., F.S.A. Scot. This weave was originally a 4 shaft weave.


Carolyn Priest-Dorman's plain weave
Weave: Plain Weave.

Weaver: Carolyn Priest-Dorman

Warp/weft: 10/2 shetland wool from Leithen Mills in Scotland

sett: 20 epi/ppi

Notes: Final count: 28 epi x 15 ppi. This became three caps. This fabric was difficult to photograph as both warp and weft are plum colored.


Deborah Pulliam's fingerlooped cord
Weave: Finger Looped Cord

Weaver: Deborah Pulliam

Warp/weft: Handspun shetland in white and natural black

Notes: Image larger than life. This is one of the simplest of fingerlooped cord, using five elements and a basic repeat. This is found on page 139 of Textiles and Clothing by Elisabeth Crowfoot et al.


Sur Furst's twill
Weave: Shroud of Bernard of Clairvaux

Weaver: Sue Furst

Warp: 20/2 & 5/2 pearle cotton; Weft: 14/2 unmercerized cotton

Notes: Source was "Some Medieval Linen Weaves" by Carolyn Priest-Dorman in Medieval Textiles, May 2002.


Tere Bruns' twill
Weave: Diamond Twill

Weaver: Tere Bruns

Warp/weft: soft, large grist cotton

sett: 10 epi/ppi


Tui Hedstrom's card woven border
Weave: Tablet Woven Cord

Weaver: Tui Hedstrom

Warp/weft: 5/2 & 3/2 pearle cotton

Notes: This is the earliest Latvian border that it has been possible to reconstruct. Earlier card weavings were too badly deteriorated to be able to duplicate. This band was sewn to one of the long sides of a shawl with the narrower edge next to the shawl.

(c) 2004 Nancy M McKenna, All Rights Reserved. Files on this page may also be covered by copyrights held by their creators. Please ask permission and give credit where credit is due.